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St. John’s travel guide: Canada’s Easternmost City

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Hello, fellow travelers!

Today, I will guide you on a journey to the easternmost edge of the American continent, to a place where you can watch the sunrise before almost everyone else.

St. John’s is located in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada, and is one of the oldest European settlements in North America, with the first records dating back to the late 15th century.

But St. John’s is not just the provincial capital and a harbour city steeped in history. It is also a lively place, surrounded by forests and hills and washed by the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean. No wonder here you will find some truly breathtaking scenery, especially if you are a nature lover.

Signal Hill hike

Here are some of the main attractions in the city, which can easily be included in a two-day itinerary. You can also see them as part of this very well-organized guided tour.

Signal Hill: The story of Marconi

Originally a strategic point used to defend the city and keep watch over ships entering the harbour, Signal Hill eventually became a true symbol of the province, with an impact that reached far beyond Newfoundland.

Signal Hill

Did you know that the revolution in modern global communication began on this misty hill in North America?

In 1901, an Italian inventor named Guglielmo Marconi received a Morse code signal here from Cornwall, England, proving that radio waves could travel across the Atlantic Ocean.

Signal Hill

To get to Signal Hill, you can take a hop-on hop-off bus, rent a car, join an organized tour, or take one of the moderately difficult hiking trails, which reward you with absolutely beautiful views over the ocean.

We chose the last option, and it was more than worth it.

Sable is incredibly friendly, and his owner regularly brings him to Signal Hill simply to make tourists happy and give him the chance to meet new people. Isn’t that wonderful?

Cape Spear: The oldest surviving lighthouse in North America

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Cape Spear is the easternmost point of North America, just as I was telling you earlier. It is also home to the oldest surviving lighthouse on the continent.

Cape Spear looks like a wild, untamed place, untouched by the powerful winds or the waves crashing furiously against the shore.

You can admire its beauty with a cup of hot chocolate in your hands from the terrace of the café near the lighthouse and, if you are lucky enough to visit during the warmer months, you might even spot a whale swimming offshore.

If you are not renting a car, the easiest way to get to see both Signal Hill and Cape Spear is by booking a tour with pick-up options included here.

Terra Nova Park

If you still want to connect with nature and explore the surrounding area in more detail, I recommend Terra Nova National Park, where you can hike through the forest or admire the stars, as the park is famous for its clear skies and low light pollution.

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Pretty puffins

You can also book an offshore tour for a chance to see whales and the famous puffins.

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Puffins are practically guaranteed on this tour, but unfortunately, the same cannot be said about the whales. We weren’t particularly lucky ourselves, even though we visited St. John’s in the middle of the season.

I also have a few recommendations for those of you who prefer urban adventures.

The Rooms

The Rooms is a museum, art gallery and archive all in one, offering an immersive look into the history and culture of Newfoundland and Labrador.

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The building itself was inspired by the so-called fishing rooms, where fish were once laid out to dry and salted.

Most of the exhibitions focus on Indigenous cultures and their heritage, the lives of fishermen, the local flora and fauna, as well as art created by local artists.

Quidi Vidi

An absolutely charming little fishing village, Quidi Vidi is also one of the oldest communities in North America.

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Quidi Vidi Lake is home to the Royal St. John’s Regatta, the oldest organized sporting event in North America, which began in 1818.

This is the perfect place to admire the scenery with a beer in one hand and a plate of fish and chips in the other.

The Jellybean Houses

You simply cannot miss these, even if you wanted to, as they decorate the entire city and have become one of the most recognizable symbols of St. John’s.

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Built predominantly in the Victorian style, these colourful houses are packed closely together and painted in bright shades, making them look like a box of colourful candy, hence the name.

They were once believed to help fishermen find their way home through the fog, but today they are an important part of the city’s identity, and changing the colour or design of some of these historic homes requires approval.

You can find out more interesting information and stories about St. John’s downtown area with a self-guided tour that you can enjoy at your own pace right from your phone.

St. John’s Farmers’ Market

Every Saturday, locals gather at this market to sell products made with care in their own homes and small businesses.

From toys and handmade textiles to jewellery, jams and syrups, chocolate and cakes, you can find all sorts of lovely things here.

It is the perfect place to buy a souvenir for yourself or someone you love, something meaningful that won’t simply end up forgotten in a drawer.

Where to eat in St. John’s

St. John’s is the perfect destination for fish and seafood lovers in particular, but you can find food for pretty much every taste, although prices tend to be on the higher side.

For fine-dining lovers

  • Terre focuses heavily on local ingredients, presented in creative and unexpected ways. Most of the dishes are designed to be shared with everyone at the table.

A meal can cost up to around 150 CAD per person.

  • Portage is quite similar to Terre, although it is generally considered less high-end.

A meal costs around 60-120 CAD per person.

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Mid-range

  • Quidi Vidi Brewery is the place to try different types of beer, including some unusual flavours such as mango or chocolate. The food menu generally includes fish and chips, tacos and chowder.

A meal costs somewhere between 25-40 CAD per person.

Low-mid range

  • Mary Brown’s Chicken is a fast-food chain that is still worth trying, especially because the very first Mary Brown’s restaurant was opened right here in Newfoundland.

Or, if you are feeling adventurous, you can book a food tour where you get to try 6 different venues in 3 hours and learn about Newfoundland’s food scenery.

Where to stay in St. John’s

For a mid-range hotel, prices can start at around 150 CAD per night during the colder months and reach around 250 CAD per night during the peak tourist season, from June to August.

We rented an Airbnb right at the foot of Signal Hill, a beautiful property with all the amenities included, plus a sauna.

Weather in St. John’s

Considering that St. John’s is surrounded by the ocean, the weather is extremely unpredictable and, without exaggerating, you can sometimes experience four seasons in a single day.

Wind and fog are common, while summers are generally cool.

For example, we travelled here in June, but the temperature didn’t go above 20°C on any of the days we spent there.

In fact, June in Newfoundland felt more like April back home: plenty of rain, chilly days, trees in bloom and tulips!

So make sure you keep this in mind when packing. Layers and a waterproof jacket will be your best friends.

As always, thank you for reading and if you have any questions, thoughts, additions or recommendations of your own, I would love to hear them in the comments!

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